Cornwall (Day 1.5)

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No sooner had I finished my update in Penzance, the call of nature was upon me. Returning from the loo I wondered whether the urinals had gone into crazy-flush mode. It was getting louder. I then look outside. Its the heavens. They've well and truely opened. Oh well. A bit of rain never hurt anybody.

I had heard earlier that the weather could be a bit dodgy today. It wasn't too bad when I woke up. I was a little burned from yesterdays ride but, other than that, I was feeling exciting and eager to begin the journey proper.

Even though the past couple of days had been long ones, they hadn’t been too strenuous, so I was feeling in perfect shape for my departure. Last night I managed to triple the previous nights sleep by getting 6 hours. Yesterday was a good introduction to the local environment, so I had an idea of what I was in for today. Unlike most of my journey, I had a defined finishing point for the day. I had to complete 93 miles to sync up with the ride yesterday. Once again I wouldn’t have to worry about accommodation, so I was able to travel quite light (just the panniers, no rucksack).

I was looking to get an early start from Land’s End. I don’t know how busy it gets, but thought it best to avoid the tourists and/or any other LEJOG’ers making a start. It also allowed me to miss out the £15 photographers fee at the signpost. I think you get to sign an ‘end to end’ book too, but having my name on a bit of paper doesn’t really make a difference to me. I’ll have the suntan and saddle sores to prove I’ve done it.


We got there an hour later than planned (most likely my fault, but that extra hours sleep was priceless), but the drive wasn’t too bad and we were taking the photos about 10mins before opening time. It got pretty exciting thinking about the start, and standing on the cliff top with a panoramic view over the Atlantic was something that I’d thought about for years. Other than the wind, the powerful waves crashing below and the baron landscape (it looked a bit like the North Yorkshire Moors), there isn’t much more to the place. Although I do like harsh coastlines, headlands jutting out with unobstructed views of the sea/ocean etc, I did feel a little let down. Probably more so by what WAS there, as opposed to what WASN’T there. I’d have to compare it to Niagara Falls. A place of natural beauty. An environment that, with or without the presence of mankind, sends shivers down one’s spine. But like Niagara (especially the Canadian side), sticking a load of typical tourist trash there just detracts from the visit. Why places like this need amusement arcades, and thrill rides and ghost trains et al is beyond me. I understand (but don’t necessarily agree with) their presence at beach resorts. On Scarborough seafront its acceptable. Here it is just a mistake. OK, enough negativity for this paragraph.

The weather was expected to be cloudy with some showers, so I had packed a waterproof jacket and a spare pair of clothes, along with all the essentials I’d brought down for the bike. A quick glance at the map (it would very hard to get really lost at this point, with so few roads rolling back into the country), and I’m off. It’s 9:00am. B and minor roads would be perfect, as long as they were quite direct. I’m sure they would be much more scenic.

Typical Cornish minor roads. Not much wider than the length of my bike!

I followed the southern coastline as close as I could (or at least as close as the map said I could), passing the road down to Porthcurno. Had I set off on time, I may have had a quick visit as this place is pretty interesting. A few more miles down the road and I saw a NCR signpost. Route 3 turn left. Why not? It’s obviously going somewhere, and its definitely suitable for bicycle. Plenty of ups and downs ensued, but the road was certainly memorable. Very narrow in places (I could stand central in the road and touch the hedges either side without moving), but I didn’t see one car on the first stretch through Lamorna.

The English Channel appears as I drop down into Mousehole. A quaint little place, and a little more flat as I leave and head round into the bay. Penzance is in view, and 10 minutes later I’m on its seafront, then back tracking up the high street for my breakfast rendezvous (see my last post). I’ve ridden for 1.5 hours, and have completed 16 miles. It was nearly twice the distance of the most direct route, so I’m having second thoughts about using minor roads.

Backroad into Mousehole. Penzance is in the bay around the headland.

So, as I began this post…..the rain! It was very wet outside, but only seemed to be raining lightly, so I figured I’d be fine continuing in the same clothes, but with a lightweight, slightly water resistant top too. Its noon and I’m back on the bike racing up towards the A30. Its getting a bit busy as I leave Penzance, and I’m now cycling into the rain as it gets a bit heavier, alongside all sizes of vehicles. This is the main route all the way to Exeter and the nearest motorway.

After crossing the country in less than an hour (I wont get chance to say that again, so best shout it now), I reach Hayle. The weather seems worse on Cornwall’s north coast and isn’t letting up. Before I left home, I managed to find a recommended route through this county, as I’d heard it’s the hardest part of the trip, and often underestimated. A couple of google searches brought me to a post by ‘Mick F’ on the CTC forum, which became the basis of my first 2 days.

From Hayle I followed the ‘Old’ A30, or at least I think I did. I don’t remember seeing a single sign referring to the ‘old A30’, but I did pass through the towns/villages that were listed in the post (Connor Downs, Roseworthy, Camborne and Redruth). It was a perfect road for cycling. There were some climbs but, from what I gather, there is no way around them in this part of the UK.

At Blackwater I leave the relative safety of country lanes for the A3075. This takes me up to Newquay. The road is a constant stream of traffic. I don’t know why anyone would want to be out and about in conditions like this. A mile or two along the road and the chain slips and derails. Despite the temperature (which I would call very decent for this weather and time of year), my hands were barely able sort out the problem. I guess I do sometimes suffer from bad circulation in my fingers during the cold and wet, but was surprised it was causing a problem now. Back on the road, after god knows how many ascents and descents, I’m finally turning up the A392. Im starting to feel sick. The rain hasn’t stopped, the hills are horrible, and Im getting tired. I’m only just over half way through the days ride though, and I’m getting behind schedule. I had to finish off most of my rations (breakfast bars, apples and bananas), after finding it very difficult to find anywhere serving food at 3:30. The only places that seemed to be open today for food were the pubs, but they weren’t serving until 6pm.

I learn from my sister that the days weather has been forecast light rain, and that heavy rainfall was due between 6pm and midnight. I finally meet up with mum and dad again, in Wadebridge. The raincovers for my panniers have done very little in this harsh climate, and everything inside is either soaked or disintegrated, including my maps. This is the point were it just gets a bit too much. I wouldn’t allow the idea of failing on the first day to enter my mind, but I felt exhausted. I shiver, and my teeth are actually chattering as I walk around the town centre. Very strange for mid-June. We spot a Chippy, and after a good sized portion of haddock & chips with mushy peas I start to regain some energy. Dad was very kind to lend me some dry clothes he had with him. After changing in the loo, I see the sun shining outside. It looks like its brightening up, and should remain this way, at least for the next hour or 2. Eager to reap the rewards of sun, warmth and fresh clothes I jump back on the bike after a 90 minute rest, riding north along the A39.

I like the speed on A roads. You get frequent distance updates, and they seem a lot less hillier and always direct. I’ll stick to them for the most part. The last 26 miles were quite easy in comparison to the rest of the day. I opened the Kendal Mint Cake passing through Camelford and, before I knew it, I’d turned onto the A395 (the last road of the day) which took me just north of Bodmin Moor to Launceston. It was about this point that I managed to slip off the road slightly into a little ditch. I managed to correct the bike in time, and get back on the tarmac before any big accident, but in doing so cracked my knee on the handlebars, which was pretty painful.

The horizon is filled with wind turbines. The road gets closer, and passes a few of them. It looks like something from War Of The Worlds. If they were to start firing a burning red lazer beam, then I would contemplate forfeiting the ride. This doesn’t happen, and instead I have a fairly pleasant but uneventful final 10 miles.

Back in Launceston, I sit at bus stop for over an hour waiting for my ride. Its dark by this point, but I’m just grateful that the weather isn’t what it was 5 hours ago. Back at base camp for midnight.

It’s a long post, but its been one hell of a long day!

Todays mileage: 93 miles.
On the road for 13 hours, with 9hrs20mins riding time. (Approx 9:00-10:30 / 12:00-4:30 / 6:00-9:20 = 10miles/hour) [Total mileage I've done = 123 / Total time on the bike = 12hrs20 / Average speed = 10mph]

The aim: 93 miles [Total Mileage I aimed to have done = 134.5]

Woulda-coulda-shoulda been: About 80 miles, had I stuck to the A30 all the way. I wanted to take a more scenic route, which worked out about 93 miles. Along this route I had very few detours and wrong turns. Then again, not many built up areas stood in my way today.

Villain(s) of the day: The rain. Every drop of it.

Hero(es) of the day: Yesterdays villain. Once the sun put his hat on (hip hip hip hurray) he really cheered me up when I needed it most. A close second were the folks, for the transportation and the dry clothes.

Cost: £10 (Wetherspoons Breakfast = £5, Fish & Chips w/ Cup of Tea = £5). Today I mostly snacked on food I had brought from home such as Apples, Oranges & Bananas. [Total cost of ride to date = £10]